Production of dadrum and djembe

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 1: The Odun tree

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 2: The tree is cut down

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 3: Timber!

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 4: The stem of the tree is cut up into drums

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 5: The waist of the drum is cut in its raw form

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 6: The top part of the drum is hollowed

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 7: The bottom part of the drum is freed

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 8: A rough shaping of the drum is then completed

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 9: The foot-part of the drum is hollowed

1. Step: The tree

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made.
Picture 10: The top and bottom hollow of the drum meet and form a hollow cylinder

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 11: Cylinders arrive at the workshop

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 12: Diverse tools 1997 and 2003

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 13: Unnecessary wood removed 1997 and 2003

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 14: Cylinders receive their last sandpapering 1997 and 2003

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 15: Unnecessary wood removed 2005

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 16: Engraving

2. Step: The cylinder

Firstly the tree is collected from the bush where raw cylinders are made. When the cylinders arrive at the workshop (picture 11) the unnecessary wood is removed and the cylinders left to dry before they can be worked.
Picture 17: Decorating

3. Step: Rings

Each drum has a series of three rings (picture 18). Two at the top and one in the middle to tighten the skin. The rings are made from iron recycled from old cars and motor bikes.
Picture 18: Construction of rings

3. Step: Rings

Each drum has a series of three rings (picture 18). Two at the top and one in the middle to tighten the skin. The rings are made from iron recycled from old cars and motor bikes.
Picture 19: Rings covered in plastic

3. Step: Rings

Each drum has a series of three rings (picture 18). Two at the top and one in the middle to tighten the skin. The rings are made from iron recycled from old cars and motor bikes.
Picture 20: Rings covered in material

3. Step: Rings

Each drum has a series of three rings (picture 18). Two at the top and one in the middle to tighten the skin. The rings are made from iron recycled from old cars and motor bikes.
Picture 21: Knots being tied

4. Step: Treatment of wood

The treatment of the wood is carried out using a special wax which both protects and enhances the appearance of the wood (picture 22)
Picture 22: Cylinders get wax treatment

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 23: Goat skins drying

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 24: Goat skins soaking

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 25: First half done

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 26: Mounting goat skin

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 27: Goat skin shaved

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 28: Goat skins drying in the sun

5. Step: Mounting of skin

The specially chosen goat skins (picture 23) need to be soaked before they can be worked (picture 24). While the skin is soaking a half of the non-stretch fishing line that holds the ring can be made (picture 25). Then the skin can be mounted and shaved (picture 26).
Picture 29: Goat skins drying in the shade

6. Step: Branding and quality assurance

Picture 30: The drum is checked for quality and branded

6. Step: Branding and quality assurance

Picture 31: The drum has been branded and approved

6. Step: Branding and quality assurance

Picture 32: Brand

7. Step: Finishing up and tuning

When the skin has had its necessary drying time the drum needs to be tuned (picture 33). Then the last hair on the skin is carefully removed (picture 34) and the surplus skin trimmed (picture 35). The drum is now finished (picture 36) and ready to be sent to Denmark.
Picture 33: Drums being tuned

7. Step: Finishing up and tuning

When the skin has had its necessary drying time the drum needs to be tuned (picture 33). Then the last hair on the skin is carefully removed (picture 34) and the surplus skin trimmed (picture 35). The drum is now finished (picture 36) and ready to be sent to Denmark.
Picture 34: Drums being shaved

7. Step: Finishing up and tuning

When the skin has had its necessary drying time the drum needs to be tuned (picture 33). Then the last hair on the skin is carefully removed (picture 34) and the surplus skin trimmed (picture 35). The drum is now finished (picture 36) and ready to be sent to Denmark.
Picture 35: Trimming of skin

7. Step: Finishing up and tuning

When the skin has had its necessary drying time the drum needs to be tuned (picture 33). Then the last hair on the skin is carefully removed (picture 34) and the surplus skin trimmed (picture 35). The drum is now finished (picture 36) and ready to be sent to Denmark.
Picture 36: Finished drums